Visits to the shrine by senior Japanese political figures have drawn criticism from countries such as South Korea, which was under Tokyo’s colonial rule for 35 years, and China, which Japan invaded.

We visit Akasaka, a commercial district in the heart of Tokyo. As we explore, we learn how the hilly terrain shaped its development as a hub for politicians, business leaders and foreign dignitaries.

A priest at a central Tokyo shrine was puzzled at first when a worshipper thanked him for helping him score a concert ticket for a famous pop group. Hiroyuki Korehisa, 37, who serves as a ...