May 7, 2024 · The result is the most authentic, continually updated climbing carabiner recommendations you will find. Our carabiner testing is divided across five rating metrics: Clipping (25% of overall score weighting) Unclipping (20% weighting) Weight (20% weighting) Gate Clearance (20% weighting) Handling (15% weighting) Why Trust GearLab

Jan 23, 2024 · The Petzl Attache has long been a favorite locking carabiner, providing nearly unrivaled versatility for all types of climbing. Its pear shape means that it has a large basket that allows for clipping many ropes or other 'biners to it at once without overlap or pinching, and its very large gate clearance makes getting these items on or off a cinch.

Oct 29, 2018 · When a carabiner catches a fall, the forces generated cause the gate to vibrate. The more mass in the gate, the more vibration, and the gate itself can flutter open and closed. The strength of a carabiner with an open gate is roughly 2/3 of its closed gated strength, anywhere from 7 kN to 10 kN.

Aug 15, 2019 · Refers to the carabiner's strength when loaded with a gate open. This can occur when a locking carabiner is improperly locked, or when it is inadvertently pinned and opened against the rock or other material. The open gate strength standard is 7kn for Offset-D shapes, and 6kn for HMS/pear shapes.

Oct 26, 2020 · A versatile choice for any style of climbing, and one that almost anyone can afford, but lacking the top end performance: The ultralight climber’s dream carabiner: lightweight and tiny, yet full strength: Rating Categories: CAMP Photon Wire: Wild Country Astro: Trango Phase Carabiner: Black Diamond Hotwire: Black Diamond MiniWire: Clipping (25%)

Oct 26, 2020 · The Wild Country Helium 3 is a fantastic carabiner, and we think makes an excellent choice for racking cams, clipping nuts to, and for using on extendable alpine draws. Basically, if you are trad climbing, then these carabiners will easily find a place on your rack.

The Black Diamond MiniWire is a fresh new face on the carabiner scene, and is sure to become a classic for those who want only the lightest climbing gear they can buy. With a very small size and an exceptionally light weight, they can be a game changer for alpine missions and large climbs that are a long ways from the car.

Aug 15, 2019 · When guiding, traveling on a glacier, climbing in a party of three on one rope, or simul-climbing, as we are here, it is common to tie into the rope short using a locking carabiner. This is one situation where you definitely want one that automatically prevents crossloading, because the chances of suddenly weighting the rope and 'biner are high.

Oct 29, 2018 · There's no question that this carabiner is light (25 grams per), however you sacrifice a lot of usability for the weight savings. The Black Diamond Oz weighs 28 grams, and is much more functional. To put it in perspective, if you had 18 Oz carabiners they'd weigh about the same as 20 Minis, so the difference is negligible.

May 7, 2024 · We tested these carabiners on single and multi-pitch traditional routes in Red Rock Canyon, NV, and they came on a road trip Independence Pass, Colorado. We received input from six different testers with over 100 years of climbing experience between them, male and female, large and small hands. We took them on routes ranging from 5.5 to 5.12.