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Why does the ocean have waves?
Nov 1, 2014
noaa.gov
0:39
3 types of break : Beach Breaks Wave types that break on sandbars. not fixed but liable to change. Wave, size and shape can vary as the sand shifts. They are often characterized by average waves and closeouts, but they can be excellent like Puerto Escondido, Mexico and Hossegor in France. Reefs Breaks Wave types that break on rock or coral.the line-up moves only in accordance with the size and direction of the swell. You generally get a clear channel next to the line-up, and through that, you ca
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